May 20, 2001 (Day 74)

May 20, 2001 (Day 74): QE2 bound for Southampton, England – 10.45pm

Health:  Good.

Morale:  Good.

Overcoming the realization that yesterday was one of mounting disappointments, I am better able to judge today and the ship on its own merits. Yesterday felt like one letdown after another and I knew it colored my outlook. I am a little more objective today. A decent nights’ sleep without the dread of packing can do wonders. The halls smell less of broken humidifiers, more of an aroma of turpentine. And the chemical smell of the water we need to ingest is less than pleasant. But, I am choosing to look on the bright side.

The Regal Princess seemed a leisurely stroll through the ocean compared to this. We are really moving along. The Cunard seminar we attended today confirmed this impression. Despite its size, the QE2 can move faster astern (in reverse) than many ships can move forward. She can move 32 knots forward and 19 astern (the ship, that is, not Her Majesty, Queen Elizabeth II – although one hears that Her Majesty can be measurably stern). While we cannot independently confirm this, we were assured that this was faster than most merchant ships can currently go.

The seminar began without pesky introductions and other pleasantries. The speaker ascended the platform and began speaking. The first ship in Samuel Cunard’s fleet set sail on July 4, 1840 with the primary goal of providing frequent and reliable mail service between Liverpool and Boston. Traveling at a speed of 8½ knots, the Britannia made this crossing in 13 days. For those who wished passage, basic accommodation was provided. There were 116 passenger berths. There were none of the luxuries one associates with Cunard then, but they did have their own cow for milk and chickens for eggs and meat. That might have explained some of the aromas I have encountered.

The distinctive scarlet and black coloring was decided upon after realizing that most other colors burned off when applied to the smokestacks of the ship. They devised a mixture of scarlet paint that was resistant to this heat. The rest is, as they say, … well, you know.

It was emphasized that the Cunard line has not lost any passengers except to war – at this, the speaker touched wood – the exception being the Luisitania. I wondered aloud if the ship was carrying illicit munitions for the war effort but, because she did not seek to present the Luisitania as an “innocent victim to naked German aggression”, I was dissuaded from repeating my query in a louder voice.

The Queen Mary and the Queen Elizabeth I were used during the Second World War as troop transport ships, ferrying men from the United States to the European theatre. The QE1 was completed in 1940 and its positioning cruise was used as a diversion. Its sailing from the shipyards of Clyde in Scotland to its harbor in the south of England was well publicized. Knowing that German U-boats would and had gathered in the Channel anticipating its arrival, it sailed in secret to New York. Curiously, it was faster than most U-boats.

Continuing in this tradition, the QE2 served during the Falklands War, but the speaker did not elaborate on her role.

She is the only regular service transatlantic liner still in service. Word has it that she is the fastest ship afloat. The crew represents 42 different countries. The country with the greatest representation amongst the crew is the Philippines.

I have accepted the shabbiness of the ship and have geared myself to enjoy the rest of the cruise. Nothing else has broken in the room, although the furniture emits a frequent creaking. Being on the Barnacle Deck, there is only a slight rocking motion to the ship. However, the crew remains stand-offish and the passengers are quite insular. The passengers do not seem to want to chat. This far into our cruise on the Regal, we had met people that we were in frequent contact with throughout the remainder of the cruise.

Not getting much support for my lack of interest in jazz. All others at our dining table love it and took this cruise for that reason. One well-dressed chap at our table was a jazz musician, so I would get little sympathy from him.

Found many ways to keep busy: partook of afternoon tea; walked a mile; climbed countless stairs; made use of the wonderful library. Tonight, the formal nights have begun. I opted for “informal” attire which, viewing some of the outfits worn by other guests, was far less formal than the Cunard standards. This was a relief. I have, however, rented a tuxedo for tomorrow evening. My fashion statement will be black tie and hiking boots.

I had a wonderful dance with my girl. The band regaled us with another common tune on this trip, “Moon River.”  Curiously, they also played music from Titanic, which does not bode well.

I asked Anna if she knew then what she knew now, would she go on the trip. She said no. I agreed. The surprise of what might lie ahead generated the excitement and supplied patience. Knowing then what it would take to do and see what we have done would have probably been enough to keep us at home.

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