March 17, 2001 (Day 10)

March 17, 2001 (Day 10): Helsinki, Finland: Eurohostel – 10pm

Feels like a long day even though we did not do too much. Much of it comes from the fact that I was up late last night finishing a lousy Michael Crichton book. Happy to leave it at the hostel for some poor, unsuspecting soul.

The ferry over was fine. The seas were calm and the skies were clear, despite being dull and overcast at both our origin and destination. As we neared Helsinki, I looked out and saw what I presumed was the breakwater for the harbor. Then I noticed the city still seemed quite a distance away. Seems odd to build a breakwater so far out. It couldn’t all be ice, could it? Yes, it could. We hit the ice floes with a sound like driving directly off of a well-paved motorway onto a gravel road. The sight of the large concrete martini glass which is the Olympic Torch from the 1952 games – tiny in the distance – indicated that we had a lot of distance to cover …and all through ice.

It was a short trip, only about three hours. We stored as much as possible in lockers, including our coats, which pretty much precluded us going out on the deck. We had some lunch and then went off exploring, checking out the shops, the disco, and the karaoke bar. Since we were not really interested in gambling or singing or dancing or stocking up on alcohol our options were somewhat limited.

We made the mistake of going down to retrieve our stuff before the ship had docked. The lockers were on the same level and near the door for disembarkation. As we neared the dock, more and more people and their beer kept squeezing in. In an already crowded hall, a not-completely-sober man carrying four cases started coming through the crowd. People were good-natured and tried to make room for him. Anna backed around a corner to try to get out of the way. However, he seemed to keep coming in her direction. As not-completely-sober man reached the turn into the next hallway all four cases thundered to the ground. The cans seemed to remain intact, but at least one of the boxes broke. Instead of getting upset, he offered cans of beer to those around. Several took the offer and small showers of beer sprang up in the area as the well-agitated beer cans were opened. No one was hurt, beer was shared and fortunately the doors opened soon after and we were able to move.

Such a lot of beer. Three cases seemed to be about average. Anna saw one couple with six cases. White haired older ladies had their luggage carts loaded. Twenty-somethings tucked as many cases under their arms as they could bear.  Many stood in the passport control area gulping down cans so as to be under the Customs limit.

Passport Control was just plain busy.  Anna and I were amongst the last to leave the area – everyone else was in more of a hurry than we were to get through so we just let them go.  The Passport Control officer we had was, in my opinion, an archetype for the perfect individual in that position – calm, pleasant, and professional. He asked me how I was and I asked him the same. “Busy,” he replied. He smiled and welcomed us both to Finland. Considering what had passed through his line ahead of us, he should be canonized.

Despite the chaos, no one was pushy or angry – a rarity in any queuing situation. People were a little boisterous, but they kept to themselves.  It was a great chance to people watch.

The hostel is a treat.  They have a very pleasant and un-hostel-like restaurant on the main floor (napkins and tablecloths with candle lit tables and food other than burgers). Morning sauna is included in the room rate although evening sauna will cost you a bit more. Room is very simple: separate twin beds, personal reading lamps, small table and a combination dresser / locker. Toilets and shower are down the hall. About the only thing I miss is a basin in the room – handy for last minute things like brushing teeth and washing up – but I will live.

The most amazing thing here is the front desk. The library of information on Helsinki, travel to Russia, and hosteling in general scattered around the lobby hints at their capabilities. The staff is able to combine precognition and efficiency with the calm demeanor of a Zen master. They can answer most any question and have on sale just about anything you could want. Need an emergency appendectomy? The front desk will tell you where to go. Curious about the interaction between two theoretical particles? The staff could sketch out the details on the back of a tram schedule. Interested in obtaining an elephant? Would that be an African or Asian elephant, sir?

Excerpts from Anna’s journal included.

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