April 19, 2001 (Day 43)

April 19, 2001 (Day 43): Ryokan Hirawa, Kyoto, Japan – 10.30pm

Health: fair. I still have a sore throat, joined now by a dry cough and some GI issues. Last night’s demon sake did not help matters.

Morale:  good. We have both reached the same level of cultural over-saturation. Instead of heavy sightseeing, we took it easy. We shopped a bit and chose to enjoy and experience Kyoto rather than trying to “see” it. It made for a good day.

Our ryokan is on a quieter residential street with a little stream about a block away. Our room is on the second floor with a view to the east allowing us to see a pagoda in the distance. The bathing room is downstairs. The room is about the same size as our room in Nara but with a shared bathroom down the hall. The toilet uses gray water, presumably from the sink or shower, and comes complete with an extravagant – and in my opinion, unnecessary – seat warmer. The interesting thing is the paper screens on the window.

On the TV is a show called “Fishing Now.”  The opening titles had all the flair and camerawork of a 1970’s cop show, with a soundtrack to match. At any moment, I expect to see the mustachioed Robert Blake-wannabe host dramatically slide across the hood of his car with a trout in his hand. I guess my problem with fishing is that I feel there is little “sport” in it. Hobby, pastime, certainly, but not sport. Crocodile wrestling is a sport.

Packed up and left Nara this morning. It ended up being a late night because one of the dryers was not working so well. Breakfast was supposed to be at the Starbucks by Nara train station except for the simple fact that the Starbucks folks have been negligent in coordinating the completion of the construction with our needs. That is to say, it was neither done nor open. By the time we made it to Kyoto, we were very hungry. Eating was the first order of business and the first thing that caught our eye was a McDonald’s. We are not proud. While I was up getting food, two clowns from Oz stole our places without saying a word. They just moved in and took it, ignoring our mountain of gear. Instances like this underscore the bad rap that Americans get when traveling. We are far from innocent in our rudeness. Americans just suffer from their amateur status on the scale of ugliness.

The International Center, part of the shopping mall attached to the main train station, had Internet access. While logged on, Anna looked up the location of the Kyoto Eddie Bauer, so that became our primary destination to pick up clothing in sizes we know fit. We also hoped a mall would have places that sold garment bag type luggage – we need something to carry dress clothes for the ship and keep them relatively nice.

After a reasonably successful shopping expedition, we stopped at the irresistible Colorado Coffee Shop, presumably for a quick cup of coffee – or iced coffee, since it was rather warm today. The staff was not impressed with the fact that we were from Colorado, despite my presenting a Colorado driver’s license. The barista was an artist, deliberate in everything she did. Anna ordered a milkshake. The creation of this treat required the breaking of an egg, separation of the yolk, and a tasting with a spoon to ensure quality, presumably. She meticulously set up another order that involved a sugar cube coated in brandy, set upon a spoon then lit afire. Fascinating.

Dinner was sushi. Again. Afterwards, we returned to the ryokan. We each tried the Japanese bath tonight which, in addition to being very relaxing, seems to have helped clear my stuffed up head. You start by rinsing yourself off, then you hop into the large metal tub. After unwinding in the warm water for the requisite number of minutes, you hop out and shower properly, completely rinsing off all the soap. Then back into the tub. When sufficiently clean and relaxed, cover the tub to keep the water warm for the next person. There was a great little sign indicating the process. Sadly, I was not in possession of the optional rubber duck.

Today’s wonder was a vending machine selling full bottles of wine. You really can get anything from a vending machine here.

Tomorrow we hope to join a walking tour and see more of Kyoto.

Excerpts from Anna’s journal included

• ChasingFogg15
• Japan
• Kyoto
• Travel