Map and Elevation
Elevation Profile by Stage
Casa Hermanina, Campiello. Stage Distance: 8.18 miles (13.16km); Total Distance: 52.41 miles (84.33km)
So much f-ing rain.
We delayed our exit from Tineo hoping for a break in the rain and to resupply. We were marginally successful. Breakfast was at a local hotel – they were also kind enough to make us a bag lunch for the road. Overhead, Spanish morning television played footage of dramatic car crashes and people succumbing to awkward injuries – this is apparently entertainment. A pilgrim at a nearby table shared that he altered his journey a day to be able to cross the Hospitales tomorrow, like ourselves. He heard the weather was supposed to break, making crossing the mountains a possibility. Fingers crossed.
Nicky, our fellow traveler, suggested that lamb’s wool might be a good fix for the blister issues my Beloved is experiencing. Neither the pharmacy or the hiking outfitter had any so we are out of luck. We had better luck at the tiny grocery store so, combined with our bocadillos from breakfast, we have food for today.
After determining that there was no chance of the weather improving, we set out. The route was damp and muddy and – for the initial bit out of Tineo – uphill. The advantage was this was one of our shortest days – an easier distance ahead of the Hospitales. The rain soured our mood and made the trail a mess. We weaved around muddy ponds in the track and navigated stone-to-stone where the downpour turned our route into a series of tiny waterfalls. Instead of our planned diversion to see the nearby Monasterio de Obona, a mandatory stop on the pilgrimage from centuries back, we kept moving to get out of the weather.
Campiello
Our room for the night is lovely; private. There was some mix-up with Correos and the luggage we sent ahead. After the initial panic, we found our bags were delivered to the albergue section of Casa Hermanina – we are staying in the pension section. Booking the private room was a happy accident. Given the weather today, the extra space to spread out our gear is a bonus. Everything is soaked. With luck, it will be dry enough before tomorrow. It also gives us downtime.
Tomorrow is the Hospitales – the route across the mountains past ruins of three old pilgrim’s hospitals, hence the name. It is the signature section of the Primitivo, one of the longest, and totally without services – no food, water, coffee. Phone reception may be iffy. Even if the weather improves, I worry about trail conditions considering all the rain. I am feeling apprehensive and unprepared. There is a grocery store attached to our pension, so we should be well-stocked for food. It is still going to be a long way.
Anna’s condition is not improved – a day hiking in the rain didn’t help. The woman running the pension suggested she take a cab for the first 5k and start her hike at a village at the base of the summit. I will walk the whole thing and meet her either on the trail or in Berducedo, our next stop. The place in Berducedo is not taking online reservations so having someone get there earlier is a bonus. The route the day after is a sharp descent, so she will plan to take a bus for that stage – downhill is harder on her knees.
At this point at least, we are both on for the Hospitales tomorrow.
On the subject of food
The Pilgrim’s Menu (Menu Peregrino) is one of the reasons you will not necessarily lose weight on the Camino. For a reasonable price, you get a starter, main course, sometimes dessert, and a drink. The drink can often be an entire bottle of wine.
Today’s meal was perfect comfort food after a day in the rain: cocido (a traditional Asturias soup with pork, potatoes, blood sausage, greens and maybe a bean or two), sausage and potatoes, bread, and an entire bottle of wine. I am not sure if there was dessert, or if that was the wine. Either way, the nap felt good.
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