Map and Elevation
Elevation Profile by Stage
Hotel San Clemente, Santiago de Compostela. Stage Distance: 3.96 miles (6.37km); Total Distance: 200.04 miles (321.85km)
Complete. Tired. Relieved. Sore. A bit overwhelmed.
We made it.
The day began in the inky pre-dawn. My feet groaned, partly in relief knowing that the trek was nearing an end. San Marcos was still asleep as we trudged towards the cafe that the hotel guaranteed would be open for a light breakfast. Which of course it wasn’t …because Spain. With our headlamps lit, we wound through the narrow streets until we saw the familiar scallop shell. We were back on the Camino route. There was a short pause as we pulled out a breakfast bar before continuing on.
The park at Monte do Gozo (the “Hill of Joy”) promises the first glimpse of the Cathedral on a clear day. The overlook also features stylized statues of pilgrims celebrating the near completion of their journey. As it was, the skies were overcast. The few lights in the park provided little assurance that we could find our way to the statues. The uneven ground was an additional risk for Anna, still nursing injured feet. We chose to skip trying to find the site and instead continue into Santiago.
The approach into Santiago has little charm. It is a series of concrete channels and pedestrian bridges over the hum of major roadways. We were not alone, but the energy on the path was very still.
The Porta Itineris Sancti Iacobi in Parque do Pazo de Congresos marks the traditional entry into the city – meaning you have traversed the final motorway. There remains a sequence of roundabouts to navigate – mindfully searching for the scallop markers to guide the way. I think it is Friday…
Before we entered the Old City, we lucked upon an open bar in San Lazaro where we grabbed coffee and a tortilla ahead of the last push. We clearly discovered the neighborhood gathering place. The locals had their assigned tables. All the ills of the world were being resolved in debate. A young girl probably en route to school distributed hugs to adopted family and earned a piece of candy as reward.
The final steps
Pavement gave way to flagstones. The stone buildings of Santiago make a labyrinth, denying a view of the cathedral until the final moments. Progress requires being in full treasure hunt mode looking for signs, clues of the route forward. Some of the brass shells embedded in the pavement have gone missing. It felt like the orientation of the markers was in Asturias mode, where the lines on the shell indicated the direction instead of the arrowhead shape. This misunderstanding sent us through one park before we realigned.
Mounted police watered their horses at public fountains. Signage celebrated the Camino and peregrinos. My favorite saying, etched into the pavement, proclaimed in many languages, “Europe was made on the pilgrim road to Compostela.”
The buzz and drone of the bagpipes reassure us we are getting closer. We pass the piper sheltered under the final stone arch and enter the Praza do Obradoiro. The square in front of the cathedral is full of clusters of pilgrims, large and small, celebrating in their own way. And the requisite selfies with the cathedral in the background. It was still early in the day so the crowds were lighter. The square certainly filled up as the day went on.
We hugged. I cried a little bit. A little joy; a little relief; a little bittersweet. The past two weeks led up to this: each step, each blister, each cafe cortado. It is hard to gather all the different disparate memories associated to these stages and realize they all led to this moment.
So I sat and watched the other pilgrims celebrate and tried to process my emotions through them.
Compostela
Next order of business was to go to the Pilgrim’s Office and acquire our accreditations: the Compostela and Certificate of Distance. To reduce lines and general chaos, peregrinos complete the initial registration online – there are kiosks at the Pilgrim’s Office. After completion, you get an assigned time to show up. It wasn’t too busy when we arrived so we basically walked right in.
I was unprepared for the volunteer verifying my credential. When she congratulated me on my completion, I began to tear up. I mean, I knew I had completed the journey but the emotion at the acknowledgement caught me off-guard. But then came the moment of reckoning when I handed over my Credential for verification. My heart sank a little as she reviewed the sellos on my Credential. My final exam was being graded before my eyes. Did I miss a day? Were all of the dates clear to read? Were the faded sellos readable …or readable enough?
Another wave of emotion when she returned my Credential with a smile. Congratulations.
A number of my fellow peregrinos don’t bother with a Compostela any more, but I wanted this one at least. I wanted to prove I had earned it – even if I doubted it myself.
I watched as Anna received her Certificate of Distance – a credit for her Pilgrimage. The same volunteer verified her Credential. When she greeted Anna with a congratulations I watched her materialize a box of tissue for Anna. With a smile, the volunteer confirmed they go through a lot of tissues at the Pilgrim’s Office – the team there is happy they can share that moment with pilgrims.
Reunion
We made to the Cathedral in time for the Pilgrim’s Mass. Got a good seat and had time to visit the relics before the service. We sat facing the altar and were fortunate enough that they swung the Botafumiero. The Botafumiero is the huge incense burner / censer / thurible (I just learned a new word!) often swung dramatically at the end of the service. It weighs 53kg (almost 120lbs) and takes eight men to manage it. It is not guaranteed to be used at every service. The word on the street is an Italian comedy is being filmed on the Camino and they are scheduled to film in Santiago tomorrow. They are probably getting in practice.
They asked attendees to not film during the service. Not surprisingly, everyone’s cell phones lit up to film the Botafumiero. Being mildly responsible-minded folks and rule-followers, we only managed a snap or two.
Pro tip: If they swing the Botafumiero at mass, the best views are from the sides of the altar – on the naves, not facing the altar. I was able to share this with Team Canada and she got a great video of the event.
The best treat was running into some of our cohort from the Primitivo. Gustavo sat behind me at mass. We learned that Team Bulgaria was still in town. There was a sighting of the other Team Minnesota. Teams Canada and Alaska as well as Daniela were due to arrive in the afternoon. It meant a lot to see them again and they graciously included us at lunch and to meet up later for dinner.
Side note: much to my surprise I enjoyed eating pulpo, the Galician dish of octopus; considered a requisite meal on the Camino. Daniela shared some of hers and I needed to order one for myself. It was surprisingly tender; seasoned in olive oil, salt, and paprika. What else do you need?
Photos taken; contact information shared; stories told. We gave our phones to other pilgrims to take our group picture. Someone wondered aloud about the wisdom of handing valuables over to random strangers. Knowing the condition of our legs and feet, Team Bulgaria added that it was unlikely that we could run after potential thieves. We collectively admitted to a bit of snobbery for having walked the Primitivo. Tales of pilgrims along the Frances dressed in their Michael Kors shoes. Folks showing up for dinner at the albergue wearing make-up, high heels, and jewelry. This was not the vibe we experienced and grew accustomed to.
It meant a lot to be back with our people again.
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