Map and Elevation
Elevation Profile by Stage
25 September, 2025: A Fonsagrada
Albergue Pensión Casa Cuartel, A Fonsagrada. Stage Distance: 16.82 miles (27.06km); Total Distance: 99.89 miles (160.72km)
The morning began in the cool mists of Grandas de Salime. All the cloud cover that I observed yesterday from high above the reservoir blanketed the town this morning. I dug out my headlamp, not as much to see the way ahead; I wore it backwards to provide direction for the peregrinos behind me. Crossing roads was the most treacherous. The curves in the road and thick fog provided little warning of oncoming vehicles. The road intersections (almost) always had a Camino marker indicating the route, but they were not consistently placed. The murky lighting made them challenging to see and read as well. Pilgrims tentatively crossing the road – on the edge of being lost – were potential targets for the cars and trucks racing by.
Hiked most of the morning with Gustavo – he was the photographer I met yesterday before the descent to the Embalse de Salime reservoir. I confirmed the rumor of another couple from Minnesota in our cohort – and chatted with them on the way out of Grandas. They live about 3 miles (5k) from our house. Swedish Patrick was at our albergue last night. He was leaving this morning and almost forgot his walking sticks – I did him one better and actually forgot mine – and had to dash back to get them.
Not having the poles would have been miserable. The route was uphill out of Grandas for over 8 miles (13km); elevation increase of one-third of a mile (half a kilometer). The fog didn’t clear for two hours. We emerged below the town of Peñafonte to see a row of cartwheeling windmills atop a steep hill. I knew enough to know that was where the path went. Uphill and out of Asturias.
The vending machine in Peñafonte was out of coffee so I was also in a foul mood.
Galicia
Just past the windmills the Camino crossed into Galicia. Almost magically, the condition of the trails improved. While not the ‘fully groomed’ trails that many might expect or hope for, maintenance on this section seems to be done with intent instead of afterthought.
The Galician trail markers are in better condition than those in Asturias. They also have a helpful arrow confirming the correct direction – in Asturias, the challenge was to remember which way the shell ‘pointed.’ An added bonus is that they also count down the remaining distance to Santiago.
I took a pause to grab a quick lunch at Bar Casa O Acebo and was back on the road to A Fonsagrada. After the climb of the morning, the rest of the day was generally downhill – except for the last three-quarters of a mile (1 km or so) which was straight uphill. Mentally, I shut down and kept plugging ahead, cursing my wrecked feet. Fortunately, our pension was just inside town.
A Fonsagrada
Despite the annoying climb, A Fonsagrada is a nice-sized town with a medieval feel. The name comes from fons sagrada (Latin for ‘sacred fountain’), the fountain in the center of the city where St. James – according to legend – turned the water into milk. The connection to Santiago ensured this town’s spot on the Camino. The fountain had no milk while we were there.
Our pension is fun – lots of framed cartoons celebrate the city and its location on the Camino Primitivo. The church of Santa Maria has pilgrim resources. There is also an Ethnographic Museum that Anna will probably hit tomorrow.
My back of the napkin calculation puts me at about halfway done – 100 miles done, 100 miles to go. I am sore and tired from all of the climbing. Rumor has it that tomorrow’s stretch is called the ‘leg wrecker’ – but it is probably the last tough section. Hopefully.
Anna feels she is getting good medical care so she hopes to rejoin the Camino at Lugo. She is resting in preparation.
26 September, 2025: Baleira
Pensión Porta Santa, Baleira (O Cadavo). Stage Distance: 15.87 miles (25.53km); Total Distance: 115.76 miles (186.25km)
Long. Just long. A lot of chasing windmills atop steep hillsides. Then a long, long exposed hike on an exposed dusty road. I turned on my music player, listened to classic REM, and put one foot ahead of the other.
If the rumors are true, the worst of the ups and downs are behind me. I am so looking forward to a day’s rest in Lugo. It has been over a week of every day get up, get dressed, and get out on the road. I have a routine so there is comfort in the familiar. But a day’s rest is going to be lovely.
The only major site of the day was the ruins of Capilla de Hospital de Montouto. It was founded by King Pedro I of Castille in the 14th Century and still in use into the 20th. King Pedro also went by the moniker “Pedro the Cruel” so it was fittingly at the highest altitude point of the day. There was a plaque celebrating human rights – a Camino de los Derechos Humanos. I don’t know if this is a separate physical as well as spiritual route. Either way, this site celebrated the Right to own property.
Cohort news
This morning, we breakfasted with a couple in their 70s who have traveled on Caminos before. She is from Iceland and he from the Netherlands. The story goes that he had done a Camino with his wife – he loved it; she said once was enough. So he connected online with Ms. Iceland and they have done at least one Camino together. Nothing salacious or inappropriate – everyone has met and are friends – they are just traveling together. They did have the vibe that you see in older couples, though, as she monitored his diet during breakfast.
It was a Camino All-Stars today: I saw Swedish Patrick, Nicky, Maya and Team Canada (Roxanne and Lynn) on the road today. I also met three Americans (Carmen, Melissa, and Michelle) when I stopped for lunch. The Americans were staying at our pension and insisted Anna take one of their extra pair of socks for her feet. Most of our cohort are aware of Anna’s injuries and check in on how she is feeling.
At dinner tonight, we all seemed to end up at the same restaurant at the same time. Daniel, who I walked with on day three, reappeared. Swedish Patrick, two sets of Team Canadas, Irish John, Nicky, the Two Minnesotans, the Irish-Woman-Whose-Name-We-Can’t-Remember, and Gustavo were there. One of the peregrinos with a mountaineering hobby told Anna that I “broke him” as he tried to keep up my pace. Anna’s expertise with the Spanish bus system has earned her a following. Some of the cohort are not feeling well and will travel with her by bus to Lugo.
This is probably the last time we will all be together. In Lugo, some will stay for an extra day (like us) and some will keep moving ahead. Swedish Patrick and Irish John are planning on an alternate route out of Lugo. Once the Primitivo joins the Frances, there will be even more people on the road so it will be harder to stay connected. I will miss this community – this set of folks looking out for each other. My heart knows it is impossible and impractical to keep this group together.
But still…
Leave a Reply