Hotel Areces, Grado: 25.28km (15.71 miles)
Map and Elevation
Elevation Profile by Stage
Feet are sore. Hands swollen. Warmer than expected.
Part endurance test. Part scavenger hunt.
We were less than 100 meters into our Camino experience when we met other peregrinos (“pilgrims”) on the same journey. Also at about this point we realized we were lost. In addition to signage, the city of Oviedo has a number of brass scallop shells embedded in the pavement to mark the way. The scallop shell has a vague arrowhead shape with converging lines on the surface. Of course we thought the tip of the arrowhead indicated the direction to go. In Asturias, the region we are in, the end where the lines converge is the direction to go. The idea is that the lines converge on Santiago so that is the way to go.
We were not the only ones learning this lesson today.
The common trail signage is a white concrete pedestal with the yellow and blue scallop shell painted on it. The more helpful of these pedestals also have a proper arrow. We learned that these markers are supplemented by other yellow arrows: spray painted on walls; stickers on mail boxes and commercial garbage bins. The signs are there if you know where to look.
The scallop shell is a symbol of the Camino and of Saint James. The symbol is used to mark the route and pilgrims often carry an actual shell with them, usually affixed to the exterior of their pack. The origin of the tradition is less certain: there are legends associated with Saint James and the shell; disciples used them for baptism; pilgrims used them to scoop water out of streams. Pick a winner.
Camino Ways, among others
It did not take long to meet fellow pilgrims. Since we are all going to the same place, chances are good we will see them again. I guess our cohort is about 40 people, but I can’t be certain – some may have started earlier or later or move faster or slower. Today, we kept pace with a German medical student named Maya – we met her right at the beginning while everyone was trying to decipher the path markers.
The route is paved – or not. Sometimes a road; sometimes a dirt path. There were at least two groups of cyclists on the way with us. The cyclists were fine on the roads but a bit unsettling as they raced down a narrow path. I wonder what crossing the Hospitales is going to be like with bikes on the way.
We weren’t the oldest, nor the youngest.
The day was sunny and clear. The threatened rain held off. The heat will be a challenge. The bladders in our packs carried about 1.5 – 2 liters of water – both bladders were empty upon arrival in Grado.
Feet are on fire – a combination of exercise and heat. No blisters yet. The first 5K tomorrow is straight uphill. I know there will be even worse in a few day’s time.
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