Map and Elevation
Elevation Profile by Stage
Albergue Porta de Grandas, Grandas de Salime. Stage Distance: 13.34 miles (21.46km); Total Distance: 83.07 miles (133.66km)
Not as bad as I feared. Across two peaks today and then the sharp descent to the Embalse de Salime reservoir. Then uphill all the way to Grandas. The trekking poles are a godsend.
In the morning, I look at my boots with dread. There is a deep breath as I slip each one on, aware of each ache and injury as my foot gets into position. Each foot is a combination of Compeed and bandages. At this point, I fear the treatment for the blisters is making the blisters worse. Still, once the boots are on, I am good to go. Not like there is any real alternative.
On the road
Took a slightly later start so that we could have breakfast together. Anna rode ahead with one of the Camino gear services – a private company to move luggage ahead for pilgrims. She was able to get into a clinic in Grandas to look at her foot. They gave her a referral to the next clinic in Fonsagrada.
I have accepted that everything is uphill. If there are windmills atop any elevation, that is where the path leads.
I paused at the Capilla de Santa Marina de Buspol to admire the valley where the reservoir lies. Or where I believe it lies. While the skies were sunny and blue above me, the valley was blanketed in clouds. Confidence that the reservoir existed below was an article of faith.
From the Chapel, the route took a steep drop into the valley. Over the next 8km (5 miles), the path zigzagged through a drop of 825m in elevation (just over one-half a mile). The way ahead was often obscured, first by the fog and then by the forest. I was anxious that the path would be miles of the sharp drops like yesterday. It was wearing but not terrifying.
Adding insult, the last 6km (4mi) were uphill. Fortunately there was a chance to get some food and rest at a cafe near the dam. We have a great room at a fantastic albergue, so we have a place to recover.
After wandering around the town, Anna and I stopped for a beer to catch up and unwind before dinner. The weather was decent so we sat outside. While we were talking, a taxi drove by honked and waved. After a second, Anna waved back. “That was my taxi driver,” she laughed.
From today? “No, he took me to the church outside Campiello.”
It took me a second to do the math. It wasn’t from today. Or yesterday. This driver gave her the short lift before we even crossed the Hospitales …from the other side of the mountain.
We have certainly been well looked after. The people are very kind; quick with a ‘Buen Camino.’ Considering the number of us peregrinos trudging along the countryside, we could just be treated as nuisances – as I suppose some of us are. It will be interesting to see if our reception changes when our route joins with the Frances and all of the extra bodies flowing down that pathway.
Starting to recognize the familiar faces of other pilgrims in our cohort – moving at about the same pace towards Santiago. Since these stages of the Primitivo are quite rural, we’ll see some of the same people at the same places. I seem to run into Swedish Patrick each time he stops for a sandwich. Maya was at our albergue last night. I often cross paths with a woman Anna says is the sister of someone she met on the trail; French Canadian, I think. At dinner tonight, we sat near someone I trekked with today – we took each other’s pictures. The table next to us was an Irish woman who my Beloved said gave her encouragement crossing on the Hospitales.
Albergue etiquette
Albergues are part of the Camino experience. We were fortunate enough to get some private rooms in albergues but we did spend a few nights in the shared rooms with other pilgrims. There are lots of articles about proper albergue etiquette so I won’t belabor the point. Essentially, the tips shared are all variations of the same point: don’t be an asshole. For the most part, people were really good and respectful of others which made the whole experience a positive one.
In a dormitory, there will be at least one person that snores. Prepare for it. If you snore, try to mitigate it for the sake of your fellow pilgrims.
If you want to talk, do it outside of the sleeping area.
If you need to leave early the next day, pack ahead of time so you don’t disturb others. And bring a headlamp or small flashlight. Also, you probably need to be out of the albergue by 8 or 9am, so be ready.
Minimize use of plastic bags because they are noisy as hell. (One fellow pilgrim told of a few noisy pilgrims in her albergue talking late into the night and rustling plastic bags. They got revenge by leaving early and noisily the next morning)
Clean up after yourself. Seriously people, treat the albergue like it was your home.
If the house rules are take your boots off and don’t bring your trekking poles into the sleeping area, then don’t be a dick.
Chairs are for sitting, not storing your pack.
It is not that hard, people.
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