Map and Elevation
Elevation Profile by Stage
September 29, 2025: Ferreira
Albergue A Nave de Ferreira, Ferreira. Stage Distance: 16.72 miles (26.9km); Total Distance: 152.01 miles (244.57km)
A very tough day.
It began well. The rising sun bathed the cathedral tower in a golden glow. We exited the city walls with one of our Canadian peregrinos and descended to the Mino river. The statue of a Roman soldier bade us a farewell as we crossed the ancient bridge to begin our trek to Ferreira. We noticed a few new faces on the uphill slog out of Lugo, but it was not as crowded with new pilgrims as I expected.
And then, as we stopped for a coffee 10km into the day, it was over.
Anna was in pain. It was not practical or wise for her to continue her Camino. She made the very difficult decision to stop. Some of our cohort – including the other couple from Minnesota – consoled her as we waited for the cab to arrive. Adam, the young man who had inexplicable difficulty in finding Spanish tortilla, even made a reappearance. He hobbled by on crutches, injured but choosing to carry on. Seeing Adam continuing in spite of his pain underscored that Anna was making the right choice to stop.
I can only imagine what she is feeling. I won’t try to put words to her experience.
Ferreira
Knowing that I will be completing the Camino on my own, I put my head down and kept moving. The weather was good but the scenery was not all that exciting. It’s a trade-off: the more picturesque the day the greater likelihood of having to climb for it. An easier day was fine.
My head was not really into it today. I knew Anna was off the Camino and that hurt. My lack of focus made me a bit of a menace. When I stopped for lunch, I absentmindedly broke a drinking glass, dropped my money at the bar and was generally ‘in the way’ of everyone. I took off before I caused more carnage.
The Roman influence is visible along the way: in particular, foot bridges and a reconstructed mile post. Some of the section we traveled was even called the “Roman Road”. To be fair, much of this route probably pre-dates Christianity.
Our albergue in Ferreira is fine; nothing fancy. We were awakened in the middle of the night by some critter running through the interior of the walls. It’s good that we are only here one night.
Ferreira is a small town, harkening back to our earlier stops on the Primitivo. We had a nice dinner at one of the only places to eat in town. We shared a table with the Canadian sisters and exchanged stories from the road. One has been on multiple Caminos and doesn’t even bother getting a Compostela anymore. The ones she has just sit in a box, unviewed.
September 30, 2025: Boente
Albergue El Alemán, Boente. Stage Distance: 16.79 miles (27.02km);Total Distance: 168.8 miles (271.59km)
The last big day, distance-wise. Today our quaint little stream of Primitivo peregrinos joined the deluge of the Frances. It was as hard as I feared.
Anna was able to leverage her expertise with local transit and the Spanish healthcare system to help one of our cohort who needs medical attention – likely a kidney infection. While not the Camino she wished for, she is making the journey to Santiago and providing support to help others make theirs. Anna spent much of the day with our cohort peregrino – getting them to a clinic to be evaluated …and getting evaluated herself. Anna’s diagnosis found nothing broken, thankfully. She received meds to address the inflammation and told to lay low. Current goal is to get her OK enough to make the walk into Santiago. As we set up our itinerary, it is only 5K so it is promising.
My right shin is tight and my ankles are swollen. Blisters are even more pronounced. The blessing is that our albergue has a lovely short wading pool full of fresh cool water – perfect for soaking feet and ankles.
On the road
Last day on the Primitivo proper. In the city of Melide (where Anna and friend toured the healthcare system), our route joined the more popular Camino route of the Frances. Almost 50% of all pilgrims in a given year that earn a Compostela credential were on the Frances. Our quiet close cohort was engulfed in a parade. More bodies – younger and older. At least one school group out of Melide. Noisy clusters of teens and 20-somethings. Organized tour groups of seniors making their pilgrimages. Knots of peregrinos walking three abreast and three deep clogging the path. A narrow stone bridge where everyone had to pause to get their own selfie, regardless of the backlog building behind them.
I get it. It is my problem. Everyone is on their own journey and I need to get past it. I have better understanding why some of our cohort chose alternate routes (like the Green) to avoid the crowds of the Frances. Melide was enough of a mess to try and get through.
Still, the Primitivo gave me one proper send off. Before joining the Frances, I saw a hill in the distance crowned with windmills. True to form, that is where the path led.
El Aleman
Hands down, this is the best albergue we’ve stayed at so far. As the name indicates, it is German-themed – complete with beer garden. The aforementioned wading pool is a godsend for swollen feet and ankles. It is clean, efficient with light colors and wood tones. Our particular dorm room comfortably fits 12 folks. The only thing I would prefer is more bathrooms / showers.
Curiously, the beer garden had a coaster from Krov – a town on the Mosel where I have a fair number of ancestors.
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