Map and Elevation
Elevation Profile by Stage
Hotel Akelarre, San Marcos. Stage Distance: 14.45 miles (23.25km); Total Distance: 196.08 miles (315.48km)
Last full day on the Camino: 196 miles down; 4 miles to go. (That is 315km complete; 6km left for the rest of the world).
It will feel like a long 6km tomorrow morning. Our plan is to get an early start (about 7ish), grab a quick breakfast close to our hotel and head into town. There is a pilgrim’s mass at noon that we don’t want to miss. Anna asks only that I walk into the square with her. I wouldn’t have it any other way – we started together; we will finish together.
On the road
The Carnival atmosphere continues. Vendors set up benches to sell custom wax stamps for the daily sello. They had some appeal but the lines were long and it honestly felt like it cheapened the experience.
That was part of my discussion with Team Bulgaria. I had so convinced myself that I would not see any familiar Primitivo faces that I did not recognize them at first. This is their second Camino. Eli said on their first one (the Frances) they stopped and got fancy custom sellos from trail-side vendors. This time, they are being more ‘traditional’ and only collecting stamps from churches, hotels, and restaurants. It is part of her Primitivo mindset.
Chris, the other half of Team Bulgaria, had her nails done in the blue and gold Camino colors complete with arrows and scallop shells. The design looks amazing.
They asked about Anna and were very sympathetic to her sadness over not being able to complete the full journey. They made the point that sometime in the future Anna may want to try another Camino. I said I feared this would be a “one and done” for us. Eli smiled and said that, after her first Camino about three years prior, she had felt the same way. Then about four weeks ago she thought differently and was suddenly on the Primitivo. So there is a chance.
They are heading straight into Santiago today so chances are good we will not see them again.
As hoped, I ran into Ann from Thailand today. When she saw me, she shouted to her traveling companion that I was the guy who bought her a beer last night. From the urgency in her voice, I half expected a swarm of police to leap from the bushes and arrest me. We had a good chat – she also asked after Anna. With luck we will see her in Santiago tomorrow.
San Marcos: Greater Santiago
The trail today was flat by Primitivo standards, but that did not make each hill feel any easier. A lot of time going along forest paths – the guide books tell me these are eucalyptus trees, not that I know any better. The village of Santa Irene had lovely chapels.
I am getting close. Soon after leaving Salceda there was a memorial to a pilgrim who passed away there in 1993 – just one day short of Santiago. Very humbling.
San Marcos is singularly uninteresting. Long stretches of pavement, broken concrete buildings; major businesses are industrial sites, repair shops and large machinery sales. A statue along the trail was a statue bedecked with leis and piles of stones – all tributes from passing pilgrims. I went to try and find a grocery store but my feet were sore and weak. When not on the Camino, there is no safe pavement to walk along major roads so I gave up. Even finding a place to eat was a challenge. There are three places for dinner and two were closing the kitchens for the day when we got there.
We are actually in Greater Santiago. There is a stone marker at the city limits where Team Bulgaria and I grabbed selfies. Part of today’s trek was past the Santiago airport. We are right at the edge of the Monte do Gozo forest. About 100m is the crest of a hill offering the first view of the Cathedral. We will save that experience for the morning.
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