March 24, 2001 (Day 17): Intourist Hotel, Moscow – 11.30pm
I did a quick check for listening devices in our room. Short of such devices being large, bright pink and outfitted with a flashing indicator that read “Listening Device” I would never be able to find one – a definite flaw in my approach. The dialog from the crappy Rutger Hauer – Mimi Rogers movie on the TV should frustrate would-be eavesdroppers.
Morale: good.
Health: good. I did not get a lot of sleep on the train, but managed a nap in the room. Perhaps a visit by the sleeping gas bandits would have helped.
The train arrived in Moscow on time: 6.45am. By 7am, we were tackling the Moscow metro. Fortunately, most of the city was still asleep, so we were spared the heavy crowds. I watched my fellow early risers to ascertain how the system worked. After struggling through the turnstiles with our gear, we were off. We emerged in front of the Bolshoi. Orienting ourselves with street signs and our compass got us to our hotel – where we had a wonderful nap. We both slept very soundly, so I suspect it was well-needed.
Arising for lunch, we began our orientation wander through the city. It was chilly as we explored Red Square so we explored the adjacent GUM department store when we needed a break from the cold. To my surprise, St. Basil’s was not as colorful as the Church of the Resurrection in St. Petersburg was. Then again, it appears that St. Basil’s is undergoing restoration work and many years of restoration had recently been completed on the Church of the Resurrection. I was also struck by how my perceived orientation of Red Square was off. It had always been my impression that, while standing in the Square and facing St. Basil’s, the Kremlin would be on the left. It is on the right. I am sure I can watch any number of old newsreels and find that I had misled myself, but it was curious and disorienting.
The most striking contrast between Moscow and St. Petersburg is how orderly and clean Moscow is by comparison. We heard that this was the case since Moscow is where the money is, but the degree of difference is an eye-opener. Streets are in very good condition, as is the pavement; their maintenance – in the city center at least – seems regular. Moscow feels like a typical European city complete with store fronts, billboards, beggars, and herds of vehicles expelling pollutants. Add to that the distinct aroma of asphalt that can only be Russian tobacco and you have Moscow.
From the window of our hotel we see Moscow lit up below us. We are not quite at the correct angle to see Red Square properly. However, the lights from the subterranean shopping mall adjacent to the Kremlin wall, the buildings within the Kremlin, and the lit up façade of the rebuilt Church of Christ the Savior are visible. At least I think that is the church we are seeing.
People-watching at the hotel is quite good. The hotel bar on the main floor is rumored to be rather popular with the underworld. The metal detector at the bar entrance and the strains of the Godfather theme piped in certainly add to that image. Adding to the curious cast of characters, they are filming some type of movie here. Our Russian is not good enough to determine what type of film it is, although Anna saw someone in a US Army costume so that would rule out Restoration Comedy. Some of the crew seems to be checking out a nearby room for filming or for a place to put their drinks cart.
In the news today: Bombs have gone off in southern Russia in areas bordering Chechnya. An earthquake measuring 6.4 on the Richter scale has hit Hiroshima, where we will be in a couple weeks. The Mir space station has fallen to Earth, breaking up over the Pacific, as expected.
Excerpts from Anna’s journal included.
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