April 5, 2001 (Day 29): Beijing – 11.30pm
Promptly at 7.50 this morning, there was a knock at our door. We opened the door to our room and admitted a force of nature in the form of our friend’s parent. Li-Wei’s mother teaches here at the Capital University of Economics and Business. It was through her that we were able to arrange lodging and she wanted to stop by and say hello. It was a great way to begin the day. Cheery and energetic, her enthusiasm was infectious. She shook our hands, welcomed us to Beijing, and hoped our stay was going well. Despite Li-Wei’s concern about her mother’s English skills she did not bring an interpreter, nor did she need one. During our chat, we learned that the phone number on the slip we gave the taxi driver on the first day was her mother’s – she gave the taxi driver directions to the school. We apologized profusely but she said it was no problem.
Then, as quickly as it began, it was over. Li-Wei’s mother said she had a class to teach and could not stay longer. With a quick round of goodbyes, she excused herself and disappeared as if by magic. Anna and I stood with bemused looks wondering what had just happened.
An excellent start to a fine day and a superb evening.
The Great Wall of China is longer than the United States is wide. Its length has not been entirely mapped or fully surveyed.
Ancient Mysteries, China’s Wall of Doom
Vinh was waiting for us downstairs, where we were ushered into a waiting car to take us to the Great Wall. The shortcomings of our chosen mode of travel were made evident en route when we stopped at a jade company. Sadly, this was not unexpected. We have been through this in our travels before. These excursions to tourist shops are necessary evils but I hoped that having a private guide would reduce the prevalence. If anything, the frequency appears to increase since having a guide and car implies that we have money and a great desire to be parted with it via investment in trinkets. I chalk this up as a learning opportunity and will be a better consumer next time.
After escaping with our wallets intact, we visited the section of the Great Wall at Badaling, very close to the place where our train passed through a couple days ago. The site was very popular with the tour buses, but the higher up on the wall we climbed, the fewer tourists we encountered. I suspect the guides take their charges here to wear them out and make them easier to herd. The Wall was aflutter with rainbow-hued flags announcing the “Beijing 2008” Olympic Games. Our portion we visited terminated at a tower atop the hill. Enterprising salespeople were peddling medallions to prove that you had made it all the way to the top. Clever entrepreneurs would have been selling the same items halfway up.
Alongside the section of the Wall we ascended, the terrain plunged into a severe valley. While well maintained, the way up varied between a gradual slope and tiny stairs. The strain of the climb did not drown my excitement, knowing that I was really here. Another thing I had hoped to see, but was never certain I would. At the bottom was a carved stone that people paused to take pictures of. Vinh said it read something to the effect of being a real man having climbed to or been to the Great Wall. Will have to have someone translate this for us when we get back to get a second opinion.
Although he was better today, our guide is still no more knowledgeable than those hosting the large groups are. Because we are focusing on the main sites, our itinerary is not much different than those visited by the bus tours. Armed with this experience, we will be smarter consumers next time. I would pick and choose a bit more.
Note: The inscription reads “He who has not reached the Great Wall is not a true man”
I would have been happy to wander the Wall all day, but Vinh had other ideas. After a disappointing lunch, with plenty of time for shopping, we were taken to a forgettable UNESCO site, the Ming Tombs. There was a dearth of information at the Tombs themselves, something our guide did not see fit to compensate for. Short of having more information on funerary rites, ancient customs, or the addition of amusement park rides – complete with mummies – I will pass on this site in the future.
It was not a total loss, however. We got to wander along the Spirit Way – a 15th century roadway leading to the valley where some of the tombs are located. Alongside this trail are large stone statues of men and animals, respectfully facing the body of the deceased Emperor that would be passing by on its way to its final resting-place. While it was bowing in a respectful manner, I am not sure that elephant’s legs are jointed to allow it to bend that way, at least not comfortably. We had Vinh take our picture in front of a cool-looking camel.
After this, we were treated to a “free” massage and a pitch about traditional Chinese medicine. Since they diagnosed Anna and me with each other’s ailments I am a less than convinced. Must be one of the things written in fine print at the bottom of the marriage license. One of the other visitors asked me how the “free” massage was. I said it felt better when they stopped beating me. It was probably payback for being a smart-ass with the herbalist.
Nine is an auspicious number. At the Forbidden City and Temple of Heaven, there are nine steps followed by a landing. Images of nine dragons (male) and nine phoenixes (female) playing with pearls in the heavens are common.
After we got back to the room, we went out with some of the students for a fantastic meal of Mongolian Hot Pot. The best way I could describe the meal would be like fondue with soup stock. We dropped in cabbage, tofu noodles, towers of lamb and chicken strips, and fish balls into the bubbling pot; fishing them out with chopsticks when they were done. Just when I knew I had eaten too much, the staff appeared with what appeared to be an oversized meat grinder. The waiters set it up like a stainless steel pyramid on the table and proceeded to grind fresh noodles into the pot. Supposedly, if we still had any room left in our stomachs, we could consume the remaining broth.
The food and the conversation were excellent. Then back to the dorm. I asked one of the students to double-check our CITS itinerary for any hidden surprises. As they were doing this, the lights flickered and went out. And stayed out. At the moment it became apparent they were not coming back on anytime soon, I realized we were exceptionally prepared. As Fogg would say, “It was foreseen.” I immediately produced a flashlight from my pocket and Anna and I went back to our room to distribute the abundance of flashlights we carried in our bags. We had ready takers as it seemed not everyone had thought to bring a flashlight with them to China.
There is nothing like a small crisis to bring people together. It gave us a chance to talk to some of the other students at the school. Anna had a great experience in the dimly lit halls:
The conversations started in English, but since they are supposed to speak to each other in Chinese, had drifted into Chinese. As the little group, now slightly better lit, stood in the hallway one of the students, Nicole asked where we were staying. Later on, another student asked where we were staying (in Chinese) and I answered by indicating our room. Nicole looked at me and gasped, ‘How did you understand that?’ I looked at her and said it seemed like a logical question. I mentioned that if she had asked if I liked cabbage I would have looked pretty silly with the answer I gave. I guess I forget that for two years in Germany I was used to following conversations based on situation and context rather than words. I sort of naturally compensate at this point.
The students have been very gracious, friendly and helpful. Without them, we would not have experienced Beijing as we have. While we may have overestimated how hard Beijing would be to get around, we do not undervalue the help we received. That one simple note from Li-Wei made all of the difference.
Excerpts from Anna’s journal included.
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